Goldfish.Health

A Reference

Diseases by Name

ACIDOSIS
SYMPTOMS: gasping, darting, hyperactivity. Cloudy, thick slime coat check pH; ammonia, nitrites; gills; slime coat
TREATMENT: slowly bring pH up with water changes, aerate well
SOLUTION: clean gravel/get rid of organics, increase buffering capacity of water, increase aeration When the pH drops below pH 5.5, acidosis occurs. At low pH the goldfish begin darting around the tank, breathing rapidly, and/or may jump at any movement near the tank. Death can occur very quickly if the drop is rapid (pH shock) even when the pH does not reach 5.5. When the pH drops slowly, the same symptoms will gradually emerge; gasping due to lowered oxygen carrying capacity of the blood, heavy slime production which reduces oxygen exchange over the gills, the precipitation of any metals in the water into the gills, goldfish darting into the side of the tank. Metals are very toxic at low pH. Gills will be dark red to almost brownish. Pond goldfish are more tolerant of pH fluctuations than tank goldfish. Outdoors, submerged plants/algae make carbon dioxide during the night. CO2 dissolves in water and makes an acid that can drive the pH down into the 6.5 range. In the morning the plants/algae use the CO2 and the pH rises. At night, algae filled or polluted ponds/lakes can also use up the dissolved oxygen. This means the goldfish are either gasping at the surface or found dead in the morning. The largest goldfish die first. Immediately increase/add aeration whenever a goldfish is seen gasping at the surface. This is one reason that pumps and waterfalls are never turned off, especially not at night. Dissolved CO2 cannot drop the pH to 5.5. But decaying organic matter in the tank or pond will drop the pH that far. Feces and rotting food in gravel in the bottom of tanks, dead leaves etc. in the bottom of ponds decay without oxygen. This leads to incomplete breakdown and the accumulation of organic acids, fermentation products, including toxic gases. The other consideration is that the two primary nitrification/cycle bacteria, Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter are sensitive to pH. Low pH kills the biofilter. Nitrobacter dies first, and the nitrites rise forming nitric acid. This kills the Nitrosomonas and the ammonia rises. Nitrite poisoning turns the gills of the goldfish almost brown. If the ammonia and/or nitrites are high, it is better to adjust the pH of fresh water to the existing water and move the goldfish to fresh water to prevent further damage from the toxins. If the goldfish survive, they are going to be very stressed. Stressed goldfish have a poor immune system which leaves them susceptible to infection. This is a case of "fried gills". If the biofilter has been killed, they will need frequent small water changes to keep the water pristine. They are going to need substantial aeration. Treating with medications must be resisted. goldfish with fried gills cannot handle medications except in foods, so medicated foods can be fed to prevent infections. If the biofilter was killed, goldfish may have been burned so the appearance of black marks should not be cause for alarm. This is a sign of healing. Initial treatment: goldfish should be moved to a bucket of the tank water and the pH gradually brought up or the goldfish will suffer pH shock. An air stone must be put in the bucket with the goldfish. Make sure the temperature of the new water is matched to the tank water. If the ammonia/nitrites are high, move the goldfish to temperature and pH matched fresh water immediately.
Solution: Clean the tank out completely and refill. (Especially if the biofilter is dead, consider switching to alternate types of biofilters and removing the gravel permanently). Increase the gravel siphoning frequency and thoroughness. Or consider gravel on only 1/2 of the tank so food can be fed over the bare bottom part of the tank. Determine the hardness of the water. It should be at least 50 ppm of total hardness or get organic dolomitic lime (best) or crushed coral to provide a buffer system. Baking soda is a carbonate and a good buffer, but it gradually leaves the system and is not a long term solution. In a pond, the goldfish must be removed and the bottom of the pond cleaned. A sewage pump works well for a heavy build up of rotting leaves. If the water is naturally soft, organic dolomitic lime or crushed limestone will add buffering capacity. Do not use slaked lime as this can cause a rapid pH change that can shock goldfish. Increasing aeration with foot long air stones and an air pump will turn the water over bringing oxygenated water to the bottom of the pond. This (combined with a good mechanical filter) will allow aerobic breakdown of organics and prevent the buildup of toxic products on the bottom.

ALKALOSIS
SYMPTOM: darting, gasping, red streaks, sudden death. Check pH, gills, ammonia
TREATMENT: bring pH down slowly, aerate well
SOLUTION: cycled biofilter, seal concrete. When the pH rises above 8.8 or so, Goldfish may develop symptoms similar to acidosis and/or ammonia toxicity. However, GF like more alkaline conditions and are very tolerant of higher pHs. The problem is that ammonia is much more toxic at high than low pH. Alkalosis is most often a problem of cycling filters. If due to high ammonia levels, changing the water frequently until the filter is cycled is all that is needed. If gills are dark red, do not use medications. Alkalosis can also occur when new concrete ponds have not been acid treated or sealed. High levels of lime leach into the water, rapidly killing the goldfish. Any goldfish still alive must be moved out of the pond into water that is 0.5 pH units lower than the pH in the pond and the water gradually replaced down to normal tap pH. The concrete must be treated to stop the leaching. Limestone pavers will not rapidly leach lime unless the tap water is very acid. Without warning, city water departments add various chemicals to the water that can cause a lot of problems. They sometimes use NaOH, a powerful alkali. This can make the pH of the water jump quite high. One reason aged water is recommended is that it allows time to check the water for pH, chlorine, etc. before putting it in the tanks.

CHILONDONELLA
SYMPTOMS: clamped fins, gasping, lethargy, hiding, thick slime coat rule out pH problems; slime coat; gills
TREATMENT: 3% salt dip, then Quick Cure for 3 days
SOLUTION: better tank and water conditions, salt dip and treat goldfish when bringing them in from outside This is a cooler water disease. This means that it can be a problem for goldfish that over winter outside. Treat with Quick Cure for three day with 30% water changes each day. In the pond, increase the salt to therapeutic levels.

OODINIUM
SYMPTOMS: lethargy, flashing, dry patchy looking skin, yellowish tinge, thick slime coat check for heavy slime coat, use a flashlight, do a scrape
TREATMENT: water changes, salt dip,Quick Cure for 3 days.
SOLUTION: improve water conditions, quarantine new goldfish Oodinium is a disease (AKA Velvet) caused by a parasite. Infestation causes a velvety texture all over the goldfish or just in small patches. The best way to spot it is to take a flash light at night and look in the area near the dorsal fin. You should see very pronounced areas of dry patchy looking skin and this should have a yellowish tint to it.

COLUMNARIS
SYMPTOMS: white threads blowing in and out of mouth, dry skin, skin color darkens, white fungusy or thready looking sores, peduncle disease, red anal vent, chronic bubble eating check for mouth and anal vent for sores; slime coat; mushy belly; gills light to dark brown patches, white sores
TREATMENT: potassium permanganate in the water, feed romet B, injection of antibiotic if possible. Topical treatment of wounds.
SOLUTION: improve water conditions, quarantine new goldfish. It almost always indicates that a parasitic infection is going on and an accumulation of organic debris, including fecal matter. There are two main kinds of infection, internal and external. Some goldfish are carriers, others acquire internal infections when they eat fecal matter of other columnaris infected goldfish. Internal infections may cause adhesions of internal organs. In fancy GF, this can damage or bind the swim bladder to the point that floating problems occur. This may be one reason some goldfish are chronic air bubble eaters and are unsteady in the water. In most cases, the only symptom of an internal infection is redness in the mouth or at the anal port or some thready material around the mouth. The problem with columnaris is that when it is inside the mouth and the scales are lifting with no signs of an outbreak it usually means it has gone systemic. You cannot treat the nodule if it hasn't ruptured yet, so the only alternative is medicated foods. When there is an external infection, the wounds seem to appear over night.

ROCKITIS
SYMPTOMS: YAWNING, HEAD STANDING, IMBALANCE
TREATMENT: bring goldfish to surface, as it opens its mouth, use long, rounded tipped tweezers to grasp and pull out the stone.
SOLUTION: either remove the gravel completely or use gravel too large to fit in the largest mouth. Usually you can kind of turn the rock around and loosen it and then you can grab it with the tweezers and pull. It should take no more than 30 seconds or so, but no more than 2 minutes or put the goldfish back in the water and try again in a few minutes. As you raise him out of the water he will slightly open his mouth or just take the tip of the tweezers and gently force the mouth open until you can see with the light. Try to hold him as gently as you can and make sure your hands are wet. If at first you don't think you can do it remember if he does have a rock you are the only link to saving him!!!

HEXAMITA
SYMPTOMS: pitting, depigmentation along the lateral line near the head, thin white threads trailing
TREATMENT: change feeding, carbon
SOLUTION: better nutrition Tropical goldfish like oscars and angels seem to be very susceptible to Hole-in-the-head disease. In Noga, they apparently think it is due to Hexamita, a parasite followed by bacterial infection. Starts as pitting and depigmentation in the head area, usually along the lateral line. Later pinpoint lesions are seen with thin white threads of stuff coming out. Think it is due to mineral imbalance and/or declining immune system in stressed and/or older goldfish. Alternate theory is mineral imbalance which makes lateral line pits enlarge letting bacteria get in. One other theory is some carbon filter material predisposes goldfish, mechanism unknown. They suggest better nutrition (provide calcium/phosphorus/vitamin D supplement), less crowding, more water changes. Change or don't use filter carbon. Can treat Hexamita with METRONIDAZOL (food made by Tetra). Feed antibiotic food.

BRANCHIOMYCOSIS
SYMPTOMS: mottled gills, bluish or grayish irregular streaks hot temps and bluish color are the tip-offs
TREATMENT: salt dips, scrape the fungus off, move to fresh water everyday, or open raceways
SOLUTION: improve water quality It looks like spring viremia, or bacterial disease. But if the gills are mottled, or bluish gray streaks are showing up, it is Branchiomycosis which is a fungus. This disease gets hold in conditions of high organics, possibly high ammonia, hot temps. It infects the gills first, they will appear mottled. It spreads from the gills. It is very, very difficult to treat. The Goldfish Guru suggests: 3% salt dips. Move them into fresh water. Then try to physically remove the grayish crud. It should dislodge pretty easily. Don't be alarmed if the skin comes with it, leaving an open wound. The skin is already infected. Apply neosporin CREAM to the area, rubbing it in really well. Panalog, available from a vet, is much better. Salt dips can be repeated if all the crud doesn't come off. The goldfish need antibiotic food, to prevent bacterial secondary infection. The best is romet-B. Most Koi are raised in "raceways", that is in continuously flowing water. When these goldfish are put into a pond, they don't cant cope with low oxygen levels, with high organics. Hot temps and algae blooms makes the oxygen problem more severe and they are so stressed their immune system crashes. Israeli koi are worse, they are raised in nearly sterile conditions and have little to no natural immunity to most diseases. They are also not raised in "salted" water, so putting salt into the water is toxic for them. The best treatment for this disease is to put goldfish into a tank with a continuous drip of water. This will cool them down for a start, but it also is optimal for the goldfish to recover. SINCE THE goldfish ARE ISRAELI, salt in the water cannot be used. If anyone has a microscope, the fungi look like snow flakes instead of the typical long hyphae.

ICH
SYMPTOMS: white specks like grains of salt all over most of the goldfish check if temperature of water has change suddenly, check water parameters
TREATMENT: Quick Cure for 3 days
SOLUTION: make sure the temperature of the water when doing water changes is constant, improve water conditions, feed antibiotic food in fall when temperatures start to decline in the pond, use a tank heater to prevent temperature drops when air conditioners are used, or when tank temperatures fluctuate more than 2-3 degrees per day. According to Noga, p. 95, the ich of freshwater goldfish does not lay eggs, it has a complex life cycle. What we see as "grains of salt" is the feeding stage in a nodule under the skin. This stage is resistant to medications. When it has fed enough, it breaks out, falls off and forms a capsule that doesn't do anything but make up to 10 little ich mommies (this is what is easily seen in a microscope at very low power (40X) and the darker nucleus looks like a horseshoe or a big "C" in a very big cell). They break out and reproduce like crazy, each one making over 1000 infectious progeny. The whole cycle is very temperature dependent. 77F 3-6 days, 50F a month or more. In heavy infestations, the individual "salt grains" may form into mucoid (thick slimy) masses on the skin. goldfish with these generally don't survive even if treated. The feeding stage itself causes erosion and wounds which can quickly be infected by bacteria, etc. When a goldfish recovers from infection, they acquire some immunity to another infestation.
TREATMENT: Formalin: 0.09ml per gallon. 3 treatments on alternate days. At 24-26oC, the ich cycle is done in 7 days. Formalin and malachite green (AKA Quick Cure) every other day for 3 treatments with 50% water changes on the off day I use a 3.0% salt dip and QC for 3 days in a row with 30% water changes every day and it has been effective, but I did get the temp up to 72-74F. CAUTIONS; the capsule stage is sticky and nets and aerators must be disinfected or it will spread it to other tanks or back to the original. Birds, etc. that go from pond to pond will also move the capsules.

DROPSY
Dropsy is a SYMPTOM of other problem(s) with the goldfish. Dropsy can be due to problems with the environment (water quality, temperature shock, alkalinity), parasites, bacteria or virus. The symptoms are:

1. scales lifting (pine coning) and/or
2. swelling without scales lifting (ascites) and/or
3. both eyes bulging (exothalmia)

1. PRIMARY INFECTION IS NOT TREATED OR IS AGGRAVATED
Bacteria are rarely the primary infecting agent. goldfish are normally quite well protected against bacteria by their slime coat. Parasites large enough to get thru the slime coat disrupt the slime coat and allow bacteria to enter. If GF with active parasites are moved into hot water, this causes an explosion of parasites (who's reproduction is tied to temp). So the parasites have to be treated first. If the goldfish isnt badly dropsied, a quickly salt dip and a day or two treatment at lower temps with medication is called for. If the goldfish is badly dropsied, there may be no time for medication, then a quickly salt dip (30 seconds) that kills some of the parasites outright, and reduces the number of them by stripping the slime coat must be used. The goldfish must be put into fresh water to prevent reinfestation from without. Moving them to fresh heated water every day keeps them from reinfestation. Again, running the temp up with an active parasite load can kill the goldfish. Reason why the heat method doesnt work for some goldfish
2. THERE IS TOO MUCH SALT IN THE WATER
NaCl salt has to be removed from the system and magnesium epsom salts added, but only 1/8 teaspoon per 5 gallons. More is not necessarily better. Softened water may contain quite a bit of sodium ions without being obvious by taste. Reason why the heat method doesnt work for some goldfish
3. TOXIC WATER
goldfish are moved to hospital tank to protect tank mates, but also in case the dropsy is due to poor water conditions in that tank. When goldfish doesnt respond to fresh hot water, this does not rule out toxic water as there may be some basic underlying problem with the water, not enough natural electrolytes, alkalinity, carbonate hardness/buffer or something, right out of the tap. When goldfish do respond, it is time to investigate what may be toxic in the tank they came from, like carbon leaching crud back into the system, or gravel leaching dyes or organic crud or toxic gases. Reason why the heat method doesnt work for some goldfish
4. THE TEMP IS RAISED SLOWLY
The temp is run up fast, not slowly. It is rapid temp DROPS that can shock the goldfish. Running the temp up is not the same as taking a goldfish from cold water and dropping them into hot water. Bacteria replicate in as little as 20 minutes, and adapt incredibly fast to "marginal" conditions by natural selection. Inching the temp up slowly may select for those bacteria that can function/reproduce at higher temps. I dont know that this will in fact happen, but using marginal conditions for selecting resistance is done all the time in the lab. Reason why the heat method doesnt work for some goldfish
5. TREATMENTS WITH TOXIC MEDICATIONS
No treatment, not even antibiotics kill every single last bacteria. The goldfish MUST have a functional immune system to regain health by developing immunity that does stop bacteria and viruses. If the goldfish is so stressed by conditions or toxic water, or by the addition of medications, they will not have functional immune system. All medications are toxic to one degree or another. Medications that are USELESS not only do nothing to help the goldfish, it may prevent the goldfish from recovering. Jo Ann has basically tested most of them on the market. She has found the meds that work, the ones that dont and the ones that are simply too toxic to be useful. Now, she hasnt tested them all, and, Jo Ann points out that meds toxicity and usefulness IS different in different kinds of water, soft vs hard for example. IN GENERAL, antibiotics in the water dont work. Injected is best, followed by antibiotic food. As an addition, the immune system "turns over" very fast. Reason why the heat method doesnt work for some goldfish
6. STARVATION
To build immunity goldfish need protein and energy. They need GOOD food with antibiotics in it. Fasting them is not helpful. As long as goldfish are pooping, they should be force fed if they are not eating. A goldfish has enough reserves for a couple to 3 days, after that, get out the syringe. If the goldfish wont eat the romet B but eat a little chopped shrimp can be fooled by soaking romet in shrimp oil or other goldfish oil. Reason why the heat method doesnt work for some goldfish
7. NOT KEEPING THE goldfish AT THE CORRECT TEMP OR NOT KEEPING THEM THERE LONG ENOUGH.
Get a good thermometer. With aeration, the temp can be set to 86oF to make sure the water stays warm. New fresh water must be kept above the minimum of 84oF. It takes a minimum of 4 days for dropsy to begin to resolve, to see the scales starting to return to normal. And it takes a month for "the treatment to "hold" in most goldfish when the temp is finally lowered. The goldfish doesnt have to be moved bucket to bucket for the whole month. The bucket to bucket method keeps the goldfish ahead of anything they might be shedding and preventing reinfestation. A few days after the scales are down, the goldfish can be moved into a tank with a filter (make sure the filter is clean) as long as the heat is continued. When the treatment is done, it needs to be lowered slowly, like 2oF per day until it is at the temp the tank of the other goldfish are kept at. Reason why the heat method doesnt work for some goldfish
8. THE PRIMARY CAUSE IS UNKNOWN OR UNTREATABLE

ARGULUS, goldfish LICE
goldfish Louse. (Argulus) are flattened with a roughly round body with eight legs and two large hooks (not usually seen) to attach to the goldfish. It is about 1/8th of an inch and the dark eye spots give it away. It sucks blood, so removal involves making/leaving a wound which needs to be treated with a topical antibiotic. Eggs are attached to things in the tank and pond and they hatch out about a month later. They are suspected of spreading other diseases.
TREATMENT Remove with tweezers. Treat site with neosporin or Panalog creme. In a pond, the best treatment is Dimilin (3 times 6 days apart, 0.01 mg/L). It has a wider range of tolerance than Trichlorfon that needs to be used every 5 days for a month. Dylox is a trade name.

LERNEA AKA ANCHOR WORM
Only females attach into the muscle of the goldfish and feed. The long body and forked tail is diagnostic, a microscope is not needed.
TREATMENT Remove with tweezers. Treat site with neosporin or Panalog creme. In a pond, the best treatment is Dimilin (3 times 6 days apart, 0.01 mg/L). It has a wider range of tolerance than Trichlorfon that needs to be used every 5 days for a month. Dylox is a trade name.
IN TANKS
If the infestation is not on a single, newly acquired goldfish, but has spread to all the goldfish in the tank, rubbermaid buckets or containers are needed. Put water in them, treat, age overnight with an airstone (you will need two airstones). One by one, pick up, exam and remove the lice or anchor worms, putting the cleaned goldfish in one of the "buckets". Take everything including the filters out of the tank, clean and let them dry out completely for a couple of days. The eggs will stick to everything. Toss plants.
You are going to have to recycle your tank with new filter material. Be sure that the bucket of water has good aeration, use the biggest stone possible.
The next day, check the goldfish again for lice, salt dip the goldfish and move them to the next bucket of water. Clean the first bucket with bleach, also the airstone, add dechlor and water and age overnight. Repeat this checking and moving the goldfish (without the salt dip) for 10 days. You are moving the goldfish away from any eggs that might be in or on them. Be sure to clean the bucket and airstone each day and move the goldfish.
Put the goldfish back into the tank and start cycling again, changing a lot of water to keep ammonia down to barely detectable. Both pierce the goldfish and suck, in doing so, they introduce other parasites and bacteria. A little salt in the water helps stimulate the slime coat which contains antibody. Hopefully, they will shed slime coat that could contain the eggs during the 10 days.

BLACK SPOT DISEASE
SYMPTOMS: black spots
TREATMENT: salt dips, salt in the water and water changes
SOLUTION: get rid of snails According to Noga, if the goldfish has "black spot disease" there is no OTC treatment for the metacercaria (which are not in themselves lethal). They will simply "come out" of the cysts. If there are no snails or copepods around, that is the end of the line. However, while the metacercaria are there, they can cause an immune reaction, which can be hard on the goldfish. If/when the metacercaria come out, they leave behind a hole that can get infected with bacteria and/or bleed. That is a danger to the goldfish. Salt in the water helps healing and increases production of the slime coat. Frequent water changes dilute out any possible infectious bacteria and supports the immune system. The key for goldfish survival (if they do not bleed to death from the holes) is a good immune system. In ponds, copper sulfate can be used to kill off the snails. That stops the infection from spreading to other goldfish. Before using copper, however, make sure your water hardness is greater than 50 ppm and less than 350 ppm and pH is close to 7.0. Acid water and high or low hardness renders copper very toxic. Dimilin (hard to get, expensive) will kill snails and is not toxic to goldfish over a wide concentration.
Using water changes and salt (rock salt) for 48 hours will let you determine if the spots are due to burns. If you absolutely, positively must put something into the tank, 48 hours is not going to make a difference for "black spot disease".
Black Spot is due to the metacercarian stage of a parasite with a complex life cycle called a "digenean" trematode . The "black spot" is caused by the metacercaria encysted under the skin which irritates the melanocytes of the goldfish tissue, causing the dark spot.
As long as it is under the skin, it is impervious from outside don't know about feeding anti parasitic. But goldfish don't normally die. Generally, water conditions have to be pretty poor for this to be deadly. It is passed by snails, in fact, snails are essential to its life cycle.
Myxosporidiosis is a generic term for protozoan infections like Henneguya (looks like happy face in a microscope). It is one of several protozoans that attack the gills. In good water with good aeration, it does not cause high mortality. It looks like a white cyst in the gills. The only treatment is supplemental aeration (according to Stoskopf) and using a "flushing" system. According to the Goldfish Guru, formaldehyde is put into a vat in higher concentrations. Then water is dripped in constantly to flush the medication out and with it the dead or dying bugs. This way as they hatch out, they cant re-infect. Symptoms of myxos is goldfish at the surface acting like they cant get enough air. Gills are pale. In later stages some protozoans cause the gills to look like raw hamburger. This is from when they rupture and exit the cysts.

COSTIA
Costia is a parasite that nearly always causes little red hemorrhages, especially under the chin, but also along the back. If the red dots are under the scales, it is more likely to be bacterial. Costia can be seen at 100X and identified by their very fast altho jerky movement. They are oval with a dent, making them sorta kidney shaped and have two pairs of flagella which arent always easy to see except at higher magnification. Costia can divide every 10 hours at 75-78F, but die at 86F. They can divide at low temps, so is already causing a problem in the cold spring problem.
TREATMENT Salt dip to strip the slime coat, treat for 3 days with Quick Cure and then run the temp up to 86F for 3 days. Slowly lower the temp to normal, 4F per day.

AEROMONAS IN POND goldfish
Aeromonas is AKA "spring crud" in the catfish industry as it gets going quite early in spring. A vaccine is great, but it has to be done in fall when the temps are high enough for the goldfish's immune system to be up and running or the vaccine wont "take". Aeromonas can infect goldfish all by itself, but a parasite infestation will bring it on faster. The catfish farmers (from what I have been told) say that feeding Romet B in fall will stop aeromonas in spring. Romet B is fed to koi in spring after temperatures warm up.
Look for any red sore. Evidently, any red sore is bacterial according to the latest evidence (conference in Florida). If a goldfish in cold water (below 60F) is found to have a red sore, they have to brought in and warmed up slowly (2 degrees per hour). Then salt dipped and shot up with Baytril. 0.1 ml per foot of goldfish, an extra 0.1 ml for "heavy" goldfish. Inject once, wait a couple of days and inject again if the goldfish isn't responding.
The wound has to be cleaned with peroxide and Panalog rubbed in well. Peroxide once, Panalog twice a day. Slowly, the temp must be raised to 84F (tenting helps get the temp up). This temp kills aeromonas (all but the jendai strain, high temps activate this strain). Baytril and panalog can be obtained from vets.
The injection site is just off the midline, 1/3 of the way from anal port to ventral fins. Use TB syringe, shallow angle towards the head and under a scale, hold plunger down when removing the needle. This injection site is good because you cannot inject easily if in the wrong place. These instructions are for a vet if you haven't injected animals before. TMP-4 or sulfa with trimetheprim (or Romet B) are best given in the food rather than in the water and is safer and preferable. That way a goldfish can be treated externally for parasites and fed antibiotics. Any goldfish brought in from a pond is almost certainly going to have parasites. The temp cannot be raised for the bacterial problem without getting rid of the parasites since increased temps will stimulate the parasites. A goldfish's immune system is not up and running for about a week after the temps increase. After a salt dip, Quick Cure for a couple of days will knock almost everything down to a reasonable level (except anchor worms or argulus). But add it at night as it is light inactivated. goldfish have to be kept in quiet and reasonably dark place when coming out of a pond. And netting must be used as they will jump. Also, aeration must be done with increased temps, biggest stones you can find.

AEROMONAS IN TANK goldfish
Blood at the base of the pectoral fins may be the first indication of an internal infection.

SKINNY DISEASE
goldfish are typically thinner in spring after not being fed over winter. If there is a high load of goldfish in the pond, there might not be enough natural food and the goldfish must be fed. But the goldfish seem to be eating but look sucked in at the gill plates, the head looks large compared to the body and the body is "skinny" , this is most likely "skinny disease". It was thought to be viral and fatal, but has recently been found to be due to a bacterial problem that is treatable with erythromycin in the food. 1.5 gm per pound of food for 10 days.

CARP POX, LYMPHOCYSTIS
If it is greasy, buff colored and shiny, it is most likely carp pox. Especially if the water is just warm ing up or is cooling down (in your area). You could add some salt to the water, and see if it disappears in a week. If it gets bigger or more of them and they are found on the edges of fins, it could be EPISTYLIS. Then treat with a formalin based product. Several parasites in this group and viruses cause the epithelium to "overgrow" which makes it look like warts.

EPISTYLIS
As the water warms up, and the water quality degrades, epistylis can occur. They are more likely to be found on fins especially the edges. Treatment is cleaning up the water and Quick Cure for 3 days.

WHIRLING DISEASE
goldfish shakes head to propell himself forward, rarely using the tail. Tubifex and the Whirling Disease Connection 1995. Upenskaya, A.V. Alternation of Actinosporean and Myxosporean phases in the life cycle of Zschokkella nova (Myxozoa). Journal of Eukaryotic Microbiology 42(6): 665-668.
Abstract: Experimental evidence has been gathered to show that the life cycle of the myxozoan gallbladder parasite Zschokkella nova Klokacewa, 1914, which infects the goldfish Carassius carassius, has a complex life cycle with alternation of two hosts (goldfish and Oligochaeta) and two developmental phases (myxosporean and actinosporean). The gut epithelium of the oligochaete, Tubifex tubifex, exposed experimentally to Z. nova, obtained from C. carassius, became infected with organisms resembling Actinosporea. The spore structure and cube-like network of the interconnected spores is reminiscent of Siedleckiella silesica Janiszewska, 1952, although the spores are very different in size and number of sporoplasm nuclei. The life cycle of Z. nova resembles that of the whirling disease agent Myxosoma cerebralis described by Wolf and Markiw, which also alternates between goldfish and oligochaete hosts.

WHITE OR YELLOW GRUB
According to Noga, they are caused by Digenean trematode infections (Digenean fluke infection, metacercarial infection, black spot, white grub, yellow grub). There are around 1700 species that infect goldfish. uncommon in cultured goldfish. Most damage is when cercaria migrate from gut to form cysts. They are more unsightly than harmfull when grubs are seen just under the surface of the skin. However, when they erupt, they can cause bleeding and the goldfish can die from blood loss if there are a lot of them erupting. Also the exit hole can get infected. Treatment: keep infect birds or mammals away from ponds, disinfect and quarantine, kill off the moluscs (snails), treat with praziquantel bath.

FLUKES: GYROS, DACS, BRAIN OR EYE
are more of a problem in warmer water so it is important to not increase the temp of water to treat bacterial disease unless parasites have been ruled out (usually with a microscope).
GYRODACTYLUS
SYMPTOMS: Flashing, listless, frayed fins, slime coat thick or rough.
TREATMENT: Jo Ann Burke (the GF Guru) has been doing experimentation with treating flukes. She has found that a 1 in 10 dilution of hydrogen peroxide (1 part OTC peroxide from the drug store {brown bottle} and 9 parts water) knocks the shit out of both dacs and gyros when the goldfish are dipped for 10 seconds (NO MORE). Once the goldfish are dipped, the fins and slime coat get very ratty looking. The goldfish will look normal in about 3-4 days. She did not find it kills off any of the other parasites like costia, trich, ich. Jo Ann has only had to use it once to get rid of flukes, but the guy at the U of Florida working with her has tried it on pond goldfish and found it may take a couple treatments. It doesnt seem to matter if salt dips are used or not. Stos and Noga both mention peroxide for dips and other uses. HOWEVER, if you use their concentrations for the time they suggest it will either rip up the gills of GF or kill them. Jo Ann tried a progression of concentrations and times (and sacrificed goldfish) to find that this is the minimum amount and the quickest time that eradicates the gyro WITHOUT any negative side effects!!!!! OLD: 3% salt dip to strip off the slime coat followed by potassium permanganate for 3 days (at night). Salt dips and Quick Cure will usually work.
SOLUTION: It is worse in warmer water and when water conditions are poor. Most of the time goldfish carry a few of these. A little salt in the water that stimulates the slime coat protects agains parasites in general. Gyros are live bearers, they can produce a young every 4 or 5 days and live 12-15 days. They feed on epithelial cells and can often be found in large numbers on dead goldfish.

DACTYLOGYUS AKA GILL FLUKES
SYMPTOMS: 1st sign... dark red at base of pectoral fins. Later symptom, gasping at the surface, gloppy gills, flared gills
TREATMENT: Jo Ann Burke (the GF Guru) has been doing experimentation with treating flukes. She has found that a 1 in 10 dilution of hydrogen peroxide (1 part OTC peroxide from the drug store {brown bottle} and 9 parts water) knocks the shit out of both dacs and gyros when the goldfish are dipped for 10 seconds (NO MORE).
Once the goldfish are dipped, the fins and slime coat get very ratty looking. The goldfish will look normal in about 3-4 days. She did not find it kills off any of the other parasites like costia, trich, ich. Jo Ann has only had to use it once to get rid of flukes, but the guy at the U of Florida working with her has tried it on pond goldfish and found it may take a couple treatments. It doesnt seem to matter if salt dips are used or not. Because dacs are egg layers it is ESSENTIAL to continue to check for eggs up to 6 weeks and look for another batch of dacs and retreat. Stos and Noga both mention peroxide for dips and other uses. HOWEVER, if you use their concentrations for the time they suggest it will either rip up the gills of GF or kill them. Jo Ann tried a progression of concentrations and times (and sacrificed goldfish) to find that this is the minimum amount and the quickest time that eradicates the gyro WITHOUT any negative side effects. This treatment works against drug resistant DACS!!!
OLD: Salt dips followed by PP or Quick Cure used to cure this, but now they may have become resistant to these drugs. It can still knock their levels down, but moving the goldfish bucket to bucket is best as they are egg layers. Sterilize the stones and buckets.
SOLUTION: maintain better water conditions and otherwise support the health of the goldfish Dacs are flukes, much like gyros, but they found more likely in/on the gills and gill covers where it feeds. The damage to the gills causes the gasping and stimulates over production of slime in the gills leading to gloppy gills. Unlike gyros, dacs lay eggs. Hatching depends on temperature, cool/cold slows hatching down, at 68-70oF it takes around 4 days. Dac larvae can only last about 4 days without attaching and feeding. The four eye spots are diagnostic and they can be seen at low magnification.

BRAIN OR EYE
SYMPTOMS: white fleck in eye, swimming oddly or in circles
TREATMENT: none
SOLUTION: get rid of snails

TRICHODINA
It is mostly round with a ring of cilia all the way around. It is seen at 100X in the microscope where it spins and whirls so the movement can be seen. It thrives on the slime coat, so that conditions that stimulate the slime coat, like toxic water actually increase the numbers.
TREATMENT
Clean up the water conditions, salt dip to strip off the slime coat and treat with Quick Cure.

Jo Ann's goldfish Physical

1. Wet both hands.
2. Hold the goldfish upside down in your left hand if you are right handed. This cuts down on the struggling. Hold the goldfish over the tank so if they slip out of your hands, they splash down rather than go splat. If the head and gills of the goldfish is in the water, they are less likely to struggle.
3. Check the gills. Use the right thumb nail to gently lift the gill cover. A clamp on light is very good for doing physicals on goldfish. - gills that are bright cherry red are healthy - gills that are dark red indicate either the water is toxic (ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, metals, chlorine, medication) or there is a parasitic infection - gills that are light pink indicates anemia. This can be due to a bacterial infection or the toxicity of medication. - gills that are glopped together andlor looks like raw hamburger indicates a parasite
4. Push gently on the belly of the goldfish in front of the anal port - a belly that is normal is like pushing a finger into muscle of upper arm when muscle is relaxed - a belly that is mushy (like poking finger into fat on stomach) can be due to unreleased or infected eggs, or an internal parasitic or bacterial infection - a belly that is hard indicates a possible impaction - a red anal port could be internal Columnaris or other bacterial infection - check to see if anything is leaking out of the anal port when the sides of the goldfish is gently pressed. Leaking fluid indicates infection or toxins with diarrhea (see below). - look at the goldfish from the side when they are swimming. There should be no dumpiness near the anal port, but be a nicely rounded curve up to the anal fins and tail. Dumpiness is an indication of internal infection.
5. Look in the mouth by bringing the goldfish up to the surface of the water. A goldfish will automatically open their mouth as they break the surface. Red on the upper side of the mouth also indicates an internal infection. White strings around the mouth is an indication of Columnaris infection.
6. After letting go of the goldfish, notice whether the slime coat is: -thick or mucousy when you rub your fingers together. In general, parasites stimulate the production of thick slime coats. However, toxins can also do this. Look at the goldfish when it is swimming, if the coat looks dusty or dull. - "dry" or a lack of a slime coat is symptomatic of Columnaris

POOP:
JO ANN'S DIAGNOSIS OF goldfish poop
Medium to short chunky poop or poop the color of the food = Good poop.
Long Thin Poop = not eating well, usually stress related
Thick long poop = a little constipated or overfeeding and the food is moving thru the goldfish too quickly and doesn't have time to be digested
Zig Zagl clear long poop = re-absorbed eggs
Thin White poop = usually this is a sign of internal infection (unless white foods are being fed)
Clear Poop with bubbles = not eating well if at all
Dark poop, sausage like, long mucousy casing, floating suspended by bubbles = gas trapped in floating foods, foods are being fermented by gas causing bacteria, goldfish are eating bubbles
No poop seen, but water is tinged brown = diarrhea possibly with blood. this is an ominous sign.

The cells of the intestines are interesting tissues. They have to both absorb nutrients, but able to protect and defend themselves against all the organisms in or trying to grow on the food, and those that see the intestines as a prime place to set up shop.

First cells of the intestines "turn over" rather quickly. As they are scraped off as food moves thru them new intestine cells are rapidly made to replace the lost ones from underneath. Second is they secrete enzymes, immune substances and mucous which breaks food down, but also slows down and thwarts parasites. Third is intestine are packed with areas of immune cells than can spring into action. The three main features have to work together to resist digestive enzymes, absorb the broken down nutrients and at the same time keep the inevitable and possible pathogens out. It is a complex and tricky balancing act.

Cells of the intestines respond to what is moving thru the intestines. Changes in the secretions and activity of immune cells changes the consistency of fecal matter. The analysis of feces has been and still is one of the primary and traditional methods of diagnosis of health and disease in humans and pets. (perhaps one reason new mothers are obsessed with the contents of their children's diapers).

"Normal"feces are medium brown color, well digested and formed, and in goldfish rapidly fall apart in water. In all animals, what is consumed can change the color (food dyes change the color of both dog and goldfish feces). While goldfish in the wild eat a varied diet, a meal of all rice, for example, can lead to white feces, especially since this food is not well digested. Poorly digested food is more likely to retain the color of the original food (think corn in humans). goldfish have short intestines set up to deal with small but steady quantities of food. Their intestines and digestive enzymes dont break down complex foods well, especially "land based" carbohydrates like grains and long string fats.

In animals, diarrhea is a sign of infection, if I remember correctly, it is the toxins produced that lead to either an increase in secretions or a loss of "patency" or ability of the intestine cells to regulate water and electrolyte loss. In humans, this can be "preformed toxins", like those produced by staph bacteria or toxins produced in the gut by bacteria like salmonella. Infants with little fluid volume can die quickly due to fluid and electrolyte loss, while adults can usually withstand quite a few days of fluid loss before succumbing. With goldfish, any fluids that leak from the anal port when a goldfish is gently squeezed should be considered a symptom of diarrhea. Blood mixed in with diarrhea (or leakage) is a more severe symptom, indicating a more profound loss of intestine patency. The brighter the blood, the lower in the intestines the blood loss is occurring. Very dark sticky feces or dark bloody diarrhea indicates digested blood, the color of the iron lost from digested red blood cells. Either stinky water or stinky fluid and/or greenish fluid oozing from the anal port is an indication of certain kinds of bacteria, pseudomonas is one. In humans, dark sticky thin or thick feces is often a symptom of ulcers, for example, or can be caused by an overdose of iron in vitamins, or even the use of Pepto Bismol of all things.

The intestines respond to irritating, but not toxin producing parasites or to irritating foods by sticky secretions and the mobilization of immune cells. Mucous (like the stuff we cough up with a cold) is thick, sticky and generally colorless, altho any color makes it more ominous. Mucous is the bodies way of engulfing and slowing down pathogens, or trapping dust and particles, encasing them in stuff, slowing them down and expelling them (sometimes there are immune substances in it too). Humans produce a quart of mucous per day in an effort to keep crud outta the airways and nose. In goldfish, mucousy encased feces is a symptom of irritation causing more than normal amount of mucous being produced. goldfish are good at producing mucous in general, their slime coat is filled with immune secretions and is stimulated both by parasites and by irritants like salt. A white coating indicates white blood cells are involved. In wounds or even pimples, the white stuff is immune cells like macrophages that have "died in the line of duty". Pus is white blood cells, dead and/or dying.

goldfish feces is complicated by the addition of reproduction in that both eggs, milt and feces exit the same "port". Eggs are coated with a sticky mucous that sticks them to plants. Re-absorbed eggs are encased in a mucousy casing and expelled along with feces. I dont know enough about goldfish reproduction to know how much egg mucous contributes to the overall mucousy make up of feces. But the common portal means eggs and the reproductive tract is always more or less open to possible and/or opportunistic pathogens. I dont know how the immune system protects the reproductive tract in goldfish either. Long thin clear casings with zig zags are re-absorbed eggs being expelled. Long thin white casings indicate encased dead white blood cells, more likely an infection with non-toxin forming pathogens. It could be from the intestines or from the reproductive tract. If the goldfish are eating, the feces may be a normal color, but mucous encased forming long thick strings. Feces that float have entrapped air, either from the food, or due to bacteria fermenting the food and producing gas. Because there is no connection between the digestive system and the air or swim bladder in Goldfish, eating air bubbles may cause air bubbles in feces.

Determining what is the causative agent (what to treat for) is the diagnosis part. Each diagnostic feature rarely stands alone, rather it is part of a package of signs and symptoms.

SO IN GENERAL, thin white poop is bacteria.
BUT if the head is down, it may be parasites or bad food, so both the slime coat and food has to be checked.
But if the feces are thin, white but with bubbles in the feces AND the goldfish are seen excessively eating bubbles at the surface, this has been correlated to an internal infection with columnaris.

Diarrhea in goldfish is often seen as a brownish tinge in the water. Bad foods with toxins can cause diarrhea. goldfish wobble or spin in the water as they lose electrolytes (which cause the neurological symptoms.)

So treatment with anti-parasitic or antibiotic food depends on the whole picture, rather than any one diagnostic feature.

Potassium permanganate:
Use at your own risk. Know what you're doing before you use KMNO4.

Meds:

• ~.5% solution. Reduce osmoregulatory stress during illness 5grams/liter or ~18g per gallon. At this rate it does not kill bacteria or viruses, it helps a goldfish conserve energy and divert it to immune response and repair.
• Salt bath for external parasites other than gil flukes 20-25g /litre dip for 5 min

Symptoms:

White Spots on Gil Covers These are almost always breeding stars or chasing stars that indicate a male goldfish. They are little, hard and can look like shiny pimples or bumps, sometimes they look pearly. They may also be found on the leading ray of the pectoral fins and around the eyes, especially of moors. Males may have them all year or only during breeding season. When they are found, it indicates the male is old enough to breed, somewhere between 2 and 3 years old.

Gasping at Surface or when goldfish hang around where the oxygenated water enters or returned to the tank or pond. This is also known as piping and is a symptom of goldfish not getting enough oxygen. First check the water parameters. Then a partial water change is done immediately. If the goldfish seem much better right away, nothing else is needed. Check the oxygenation, see if the air stones have become clogged or the aeration has slowed down. Change water and increase oxygenation. The gills must be checked and the water tested.

In Ponds, gasping in the morning Abundant algae can indirectly stress or kill goldfish by depleting the water of dissolved oxygen. This usually happens in the dark hours when photosynthesis stops and oxygen is consumed by respiration by the algae. Sudden die off of the algae can cause the same problem since decay also robs the water of oxygen. It is usually the biggest goldfish that are affected the worst. Algae can also produce toxic compounds. Species that produce substances toxic to goldfish are: protogonyaulax tamarensis, protogonyaulax acetenella, protogonyaulax catanella, gonyaulax spinifera, gonyaulax plygramma, gessnerium monilatum, noctiluca miliarias, and so , chlorophyta (chaetomorpha minima). The blue greens that cause problems: Microcystis aeruginosa, anabaena flos-aquae, ocsillatoria agardhii, oscillatoria rubescens, schizothrix calciola. Spelling is optional. The cyanobacteria that form in tanks can kill goldfish. Most produce neurotoxins that are really painful for the goldfish. It is a very dark blue-green color. The normal light green and browns are not toxic.

Dropsy, Pop-eye, Pine Coaning, Bloating There are two main conditions that result in bulging eyes. Mostly in spring, but any time a goldfish is spawning an eye can be damaged. But it will be one, not both eyes. goldfish can also damage an eye on objects in the tank or pond. There is little that can be done except put a little salt in the water and keep the water very clean until the eye is healed. When both eyes bulge it is most likely the result of a dropsy. However, highly alkaline water can cause a fluid build up around the eyes or dropsy. According to Noga, this usually occurs when a goldfish is moved from acidic to very alkaline water.

Sudden Death Check in the mouth for a rock. Is the #1 problem.

1. pH shock - check pH of tank water vs water as it comes out of the tap
2. Temperature shock (new goldfish in pond syndrome) or recent water change
3. Ammonia or nitrite spike- check water parameters
4. Lack of oxygen - in general big goldfish die first
5. Bad food - all the goldfish fed will be affected
6. City spraying for mosquitoes or other pests, neighbor using spray of some kind that floated into pond. Look for oil slick, goldfish at top gasping. All goldfish will be affected. Immediately start running water into the pond to dilute the spray.
7. Not frequent in young goldfish, but if there is simply no hint of anything else it could be a heart attack or a stroke. This can be confirmed by autopsy.

Fin Shredding and Splitting The number one reason is poor water quality. Even when water quality appears fine, high nitrates can cause chronic fin problems. Wide swing in pH will also cause fin damage as will heavy salt concentrations. Salt can accumulate over time by "salt creep". This happens when water evaporates but salt doesn't. For example, the tank has lost a gallon to evaporation, and the water change is 10 gallons and replacement salt for 10 gallons is used. That is 1 gallons worth of salt too much. The solution is to fill the tank up with water and then remove water to a mark on the side of the tank that is exactly 10 gallons. Then add 10 gallons worth of salt. Even better (but pricey) is a salinity meter. Fins get shredded during spawning. Provide spawning mops. Add some salt to the pond water.

Black marks The most common cause of black spotting on goldfish is transient ammonia spikes (or other toxins) that cause burning. Check water parameters first, do big water changes. Black is a sign of healing. Spots should fade in about 2 weeks. If these are new goldfish, if there are snails in the pond then it is possible the goldfish have "black spot disease".

White Spots If the white are like sugar or salt grains, this is ich. White to sorta gray greasy looking spots, especially on the fins is most likely lymphocytosis, a virus. If the grains seem to only be on the gill covers, and/on the leading edge of the pectoral fins, and/or around the eye socket of telescope goldfish then they could be breeding stars. If the white is fuzzy, hanging from mouth, white in the middle of a sore that is red around the edge or if the mouth or anal port is red, it is more likely to be columnaris. If there are white "shreds" hanging from body, if the slime coat appears cloudy, the eye looks cloudy the slime coat is sloughing. This is an indication that there is a water quality problem or a heavy parasite infection. If thin white poop is seen, it is most likely an internal bacterial infection. White fuzzy material on the tail means a possible fungus after parasite infection, treat with Quick Cure, which has formaldehyde for the parasites and malachite green for the fungus.

Red Streaks Two reasons for red streaking, ammonia and/or nitrite spikes in the water or the water has really degraded. That means the gills are most likely to be fried and dark red. Using a harsh medication on fried gills is not a good idea and will stress the goldfish further. The only thing that helps in this case is water changes every two or three days for a while. And then the right sized tanks with gravel cleaning/water changes once a week. The second is systemic bacteria infection and the gills would more likely be lighter red to pink. Antibiotic food and/or oxolinic acid is indicated along with water changes. Healthy, unstressed goldfish are quite resistant to bacteria. Unless a new goldfish has been added without quarantine.

Dropping Scales If it isn't mechanical damage from spawning, is mostly due to usually myxosporidia. The Goldfish Guru says "check gills for little white round nodules". Myxos is not treatable. Only thing is changing water. The GG also says, "there is a big big epidemic of gills flukes all over the country, everywhere even in pristine ponds birds and other things carry them in". 1998 Lumps under scales could also be columnaris.

Flashing First, it has got to be persistent. Not occasional. It is due to parasites. High water temps favor gyros, dacs, costia and other parasites. If there is anything dead in the water, the parasites will multiply like crazy on the dead stuff. Even bugs, tadpoles, etc. So check the pond carefully. Good quality water doesn't prevent infection. Costia nearly always causes little red hemorrhages, especially under the chin, but also on the back. Dacs will have the goldfish up at the top of the water for oxygen. Gyros will show up on the caudal peduncle most of the time, but can be found all over. First thing to do when goldfish are suspected of flashing is add salt if you haven't already. Water changes can thin down the number of parasites. goldfish in good condition with good immune systems can throw off low numbers. Most of these parasites can be treated in the pond or tank with Quick Cure or any other formaldehyde/malachite green medication.

Lumps Lumps can be due to bacteria or benign and cancerous tumors. I have seen goldfish that have had benign tumors for many years. In this case, all the goldfish in the tank had tumors, which means some infectious agent, or, the goldfish were all treated/overdosed for disease with a tumorigenic medication in the past. It could also be the genetics of the goldfish. Lumps and bumps that suddenly appear are usually infections. If due to bacteria, it usually resolves by rupture (like a boil) pretty quickly. The white liquid that oozes out is pus that is formed when the white blood cells ( immune cells) die while killing bacteria (in general). DO NOT TRY TO POP OR SQUEEZE THE LUMP. Like a boil in humans, squeezing can cause regurgitation of the pus into the blood stream of the goldfish with deadly results. It is also not a good idea to seal a draining wound unless it is bleeding. The most common bacteria of GF is Columnaris and aeromonas. Wounds that are white on the edges and red in the center are aeromonas. Those that are red on the edges and white in the center are generally columnaris. Both are gram negative bacteria TMP-4 is a sulfa antibiotic with trimethoprim which can be put in the water and mixed with food (that is what Romet B is). It is still effective against most, but not all gram negatives bacteria. It is very important to move goldfish with wounds to a new bucket of freshly aged and salted water every day to move them away from bacteria and/or parasites in the water.

Red Spots Under Scales Blood spots under the scales is generally bacterial. Also see Costia.

Color Changes Skin color lightens with stress, darkens with illness. Color is under the control of the neuroendocrine system, so loss of neurological control (like due to brain flukes AKA eye flukes) this leads to color changes in the skin. Heavy slime coat also leads to a loss of color or darkening. Many GF are fed steroids while young to increase their size and make them "color up".. but when sold and not fed steroid containing food, they don't grow and lose color. They also get dropsy easily and other illnesses and don't live very long. Nutritional deficiencies, especially lack of vitamin C also leads to bent spine and thinness. Injuries can cause bent spine, as can stray electricity.

Red Sores Red sores that are wounds, red on the outside, white on the inside are most likely the bacteria Columnaris. Red sores that are wounds, white on the edge, red in the middle is most likely the bacteria Aeromonas. Red dots under the chin or along the back are often a parasite called Costia.

Floating Problems, Swim Bladder Disorder Floating problems are complex. If it occurs only after feeding, see below.
Females full of eggs can have balance problems.
Dropping a goldfish can result in swim bladder damage.
Toxins can cause swim bladder problems.
Cranial kidney and floating. The Frontal Kidney has only one function and that is to filter all the bad junk out before inflating the bladder. It is connected to the frontal kidney and appears that this is it's only function as it is connected no where else. If the goldfish has been exposed to toxins on a constant basis the goldfish cannot keep the nasal flairs closed all the time so these toxins get in and create problems that some people commonly call swim bladder disease, which by the way is very rare. Nine out of ten times floating is caused by overfeeding or constipation or feeding floating foods without soaking it.
Cranial Kidney Theory by Jo Ann Burke Since so many have asked, I will try to take my very complicated notes and try to give you to the best of my knowledge, a condensed version of my theory. We should probably start with the bladder. The bladder is divided into two divided sections, one is called the cranial, which is partially elastic and can expand, and the caudal which is inelastic. It is controlled by gases to allow the goldfish to float or sink. A gas gland (rete mirabile) one of three forms, torus (round), stellate (star shaped), or dendriform (tree like) controls the flow of these gases. The muscle (a sphincter) can contract or expand to allow the gases to escape or build up. Occassionally when to much gas escapes you will find your goldfish headstanding on the bottom or top. Also cold weather seems to affect the way these gases are distributed. These gases are introduced through the system by osmosis across or absorbtion through the lining. This vascular organ consists of parallel venous and arterial rete mirabile that are arranged in a counter current way. On scrutiny of a thorough necropsy I found the Cranial Kidney is connected to the cranial part of the bladder. The cranial kidney has no function in the urinary system. Lymphoid tissue is apparent, and so are hemotopoietic blast cells. The mitotic index is very high, given to the theory some sort of cleaning or filtering is taking place.
The nasal flare are not connected to the oral cavity. No information is available on function other then they lead to a blind sac. Upon closer scrutiny I have observed that when toxins are present at a lethal rate this cavity is filled and through the process of either absorbtion or osmosis are also apparent and present in the cranial kidney. The ability of the goldfish to contract the flair in the case of an accidental introduction of a toxin is apparent when they are removed from that environment as no trace elements of the toxins are apparent. This leads me to believe there is a direct correlation between the nasal flair and the cranial kidney. When the goldfish is not removed the nasal cavity and cranial kidney clearly contain lethal doses of toxins as does the cranial bladder.
The weberian ossicles consisting of modified cranial vertebrae, form a bridge the connects the bladder to the inner ear canals. GF have a large amount of sesamoid bones, representing ossfied myuoseptal connective tissue, making absorbtion or osmosis from nasal flares a distinct probability.
Using a TSA 5% blood agar and culturing the cranial kidney, all findings have been gram positive, I am not sure what this signifies other than to prove that most kidney and bladder infections appear to be gram positive. HPLC's performed on tissue samples have proven toxicity in all of the above organs. Therefore making me suspect of the purpose of the frontal kidney's failure to preform the processes intended to assist the gas gland in filtering the toxins and other harmful substances or pathogens to invade the cranial kidney, hence the blown kidney theory.
This is a condensed as I can get this theory with what time I have to devote to this particular problem. Jo Ann aka/Lazulifawn. It can also be due to problems with regulation of the air bladder. This organ can be damaged by medications and treatments before you even bought your goldfish. One is "tranquilizers" put into the water when goldfish are shipped. The damage does not show up right away. The primary cause of floating is feeding food that floats and/or too much food at one time. Soak the food and squeeze the air out so the food sinks. Best is to get high quality sinking food. Or, feed foods that sink, like grapenuts, rice, veggies, oatmeal. If feeding is only done once a day, feed at night, and all they can eat for 5 minutes. If twice a day, all they can eat in 3 minutes. The other parameter here is temperature. Increasing the temp of the water seems to ease the floating problem. The activity of their digestive tract increases with increased temperature. However, increased oxygenation of the water must be done at the same time.
For a goldfish that is already floating, check the belly (see the 3 point physical). If the goldfish is fine according to the 3 point check, or if the goldfish is constipated: The minimalist approach is to not feed the goldfish for 3 days and if it stops floating, then resume feeding but soaked/sinking food with more veggies like peas.
The more aggressive approach is to feed a pea with a crystal of epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) in it to the goldfish. Epsom salts is a purgative. Even more aggressive is to do a salt dip on the goldfish. This purges the goldfish out. Ammonia levels must be watched carefully.
If this doesn't work, there is a procedure called the "Chinese Water" method. The goldfish is put into a tub and only enough water is added to just cover the back fin. The goldfish is not fed for 4 days. If the goldfish is upright, each day a little more water is added (the goldfish must be moved to fresh, aged water each day to move it away from ammonia accumulation). After 4 days, if the goldfish is upright in deeper water, then a couple peas can be fed. After that, gradually add a little more food. Another cause of damage is toxins in the water. One of the most common is hydrogen sulfide produced by anaerobic bacteria that live in areas with low oxygen, like the gravel in tanks. GF are bottom feeders and will turn gravel over looking for food. I have seen a GF turn over a piece of gravel and go into distress. Thought the GF had got the gravel caught in the mouth but gravel could not be seen. The goldfish displayed balance problems for quite a while. Chronic low levels of toxins with hydrogen sulfide can lead to persistent and finally permanent floating problems. This typically occurs when the gravel is cleaned by siphoning and the crud gets mixed in the water. The gas is released during siphoning. H2S toxicity should be suspected when a goldfish shows balance problems during or right after cleaning gravel. Increasing oxygenation of the tank helps the low oxygen problem somewhat.
Getting rid of gravel in tanks prevents the problem entirely. Using potassium permanganate at 1/2 strength in the tank during cleaning can also prevent toxing with H2S. PP reacts instantly with H2S and organic compounds and turns from pink to yellow.
OK.. here is the deal. Jo Ann and I been in discussion about floating and "swim bladder" disease. I have never been able to get past the fact that the explanation doesnt fit the observations.
>The goldfish floats upside down.
>The swim bladder is at the "top" of the goldfish under the back.
>Necropsies of "floaters" show the swim bladder is full.
I can see where a goldfish that cannot submerge, or cant get off the bottom may have a dysfunctional swim bladder, but it doesnt explain "upside down" I was reading in Stoskopf (p. 127) "Gas-forming enteritis can mimic disease of the swim bladder. In addition to the development of abnormal swimming postures, bulges from gas-filled bowel can cause the clinician to misidentify the bowel as the swim bladder. "
Now THIS would explain a goldfish being upside down. The belly has a greater quantity of gas than the swim bladder and the goldfish flips over. In addition, I have seen this "bulging" of sides of the goldfish and especially at the back of the goldfish leading to that "dumpy" look. The goldfish is often curved, as if muscles on one side are not operating (on the side that is bulging out) and the muscles of the side curved in seems to be permanently contracted. Most likely is that the gas so fills up one side that it pushes that side up and it is impossible for the goldfish to straighten out. Think of those of us who get "gas" and how contorted we can be trying to find a position to avoid the pain. In support of the pain theory, in those goldfish I have made little weighted jackets for, the goldfish seemed to be in discomfort at the bottom of the tank. Altho subtle in a tank, the pressure might also be painful. In goldfish with egg binding, the eggs are often infected, and this could lead to gas formation as well, also with the goldfish flipping over.
CURRENT TREATMENT In cases of enteritis that I have had with my dogs, the treatment was no food or water for a couple days to give the inflammation of the intestines a chance to calm down combined with antibiotics. The recommended treatment for possibly food related floating is no food, epsom salts with a pea, heat. The recommendation for egg binding is epsom salts, heat and antibiotic food.
SUGGESTED NEW TREATMENT First try to determine if the goldfish has any parasites and treat for that. Then put the goldfish into a 10 or 20 gallon tank and just put in enough water to cover the goldfish. Use filtration!!! Ammonia MUST be carefully monitored and water changed if the filtration is not removing it. Whisper filters may need to have the "joints" sealed with silicone to keep the siphon working in lowered water .. even the basket on the bottom may need to be removed and a piece of aquarium foam tied on.
Add 1 teaspoon of epsom salts to the water. Do not add more, even if some water needs to be changed. Do not add any regular salt. Lay and attach a heater along the corner where the sides and floor of the tank meets so that the goldfish CANNOT end up laying on it and frying their side. Crank the heat up to 84oF. Put an airstone in front so it will move the water up and away from the heater. Treat any surface sores with antibiotic creme, like Panalog (at the vets) or neosporin. Do not feed the goldfish for up to 4 days. Look for expelling of airy, bubbly poops and get them out of the tank.
On the 4th day feed the goldfish 1/2 of normal rations of high protein (sinking, or soaked and squeezed) food for 4 days. After that, normal amounts of sinking food. The goldfish needs to be "walked" while in the tank. This involves placing your hand underneath the goldfish to get it upright and slowly moving it thru the water to get the fins moving. Do this as many times as possible during the day for about 3 minutes each time until the goldfish is swimming on its own. This could take up to 3 months if the goldfish has been floating for a long time.

Wound Control on Pond goldfish Spring is the time for spawning related injuries. Do you have spawning mats to cushion the female, or rough rocks around the edge or in the pond? The slime coat is continuous over the entire goldfish on top of the scales. When spawning, the slime coat is rubbed off, and/or scales are dislodged. The slime coat is the first and most important line of defense for the goldfish. When it is gone, the parasites attack, and the bacteria follow. You most likely have both a parasite and a bacterial problem now. You must treat for parasites first, bacteria second. In this case, you have to treat for the bacteria quickly.
PARASITES FIRST The fastest way to deal with parasites first is to simply strip as many off the goldfish as possible with a salt dip and get rid of the slime coat. This will also cause the goldfish to purge. If she is full of eggs, this might help get rid of them. She will blow off a lot of ammonia, so check and change water if needed the first day or two more often than 1X per day. Second is to topically treat the wound area.
TREAT THE WOUND Use peroxide on the wound the first time, keeping it away from eyes and gills, follow with neosporin creme (only) rubbed into the area very well twice a day. If you can get panalog from a vet, it is even better.
TREAT THE BACTERIA Then you have to bring the temperature of the goldfish up to 84oF with a tank heater. This will get their immune system up and running (from less than 65oF, this takes a couple of days) kill aeromonas and treat the dropsy if present. You cannot bring the goldfish up more than 2oF per hour, however. Put the goldfish in a bucket with an airstone, heater and no filter, add about 1/8 teaspoon of epsom salts (BUT NO SALT NaCl), and feed antibiotic food, romet B is preferred. Food soaked in any antibiotic is good. Prepare a second bucket of water to move the goldfish into the next day. A shot of Baytril would be ideal, but I have halted and reversed dropsy without it. Move the goldfish to a new bucket (generally 5 gallon buckets or rubbermaids are used) every day for at least 2 weeks. If you don't have a second tank heater, I have partially filled the bucket with very hot water, then cooled it down with the aged water to 84o before adding the goldfish. The 2 weeks is the minimum with dropsy. You must have a good sized airstone going in the bucket at all times. Feed the goldfish before moving, that way excess food is left behind. Also do the 3 point physical to check the condition of the goldfish, especially for any columnaris that might be present.

Spasms Goldfish Guru says "it is most likely internal damage that has healed but leaves the goldfish disabled".. When I asked about adhesions from internal infection with columnaris she said "yes, that would do it".

Gas Bubble Disease Bubbles under the skin anywhere, but usually in the fins. Gas bubble disease happens when the water is full of supersaturated gases. The goldfish swim into the area where the water is saturated (usually with nitrogen) and takes the gas up across the gills. It is most often seen when water from deep wells is run directly into ponds or tanks. In the deep well, the water is colder (more gas is dissolved) and under pressure (more gas is dissolved). In tanks, the fine bubbles are seen on the tank walls and everything else and is obvious. In ponds, a small leak in big pumps that suck air into the stream of water an also create supersaturated conditions, as can swimming pool type sand filters.
Inside, aging water with an airstone degasses well water. For ponds, spraying the water into the air or using degassing columns (running the water over lava rock in a PVC pipe).

Jumping Koi seemed to jump for several reason:

1. When they are first put into fresh water or water they are not used to
2. When they have parasites.
3. When they are spawning
4. Where ever there is fresh water coming in, at the base of waterfalls (going upstream?)
5. Where there is an airstone.

Sick Filters It takes about 20 minutes for anaerobic bacteria to start fermenting and producing toxic gases. Whether or not a goldfish will be toxed depends on how close they are to outflow when it is turned, how long it is off and on the volume of water. So a single goldfish can just belly up if it is right in the first jet that comes out. Low levels of hydrogen sulfide don't kill goldfish, just stress them. They will sometimes wobble or float for a while, then seem OK. Chronic hydrogen sulfide toxicity will stress goldfish to the point that their immune system crashes and they develop disease. People with ponds full of leaves or other organic matter have anaerobic bacteria working on the on the bottom. It can be quite a toxic brew that finally "blows" methane, hydrogen sulfide, sulfur dioxide when stirred up. One indication is seeing bubbles when the bottom is disturbed or oil on the surface (the oil we pump out is the same thing put down millions of years ago). The bottom of dirty ponds should never be cleaned or disturbed with the goldfish in the pond. Even reasonably clean ponds should have potassium permanganate added when netting goldfish or moving plants. PP instantly detoxes noxious gases. Water should remain pink during cleaning, if it clears, it is best to stop and add more PP (up to 2X dose) and wait until the next day, add some more PP and continue.

Lethargy This is usually the first symptom of something wrong with the goldfish.

1. The first thing to do is the goldfish physical.
2. Check the water parameters, then change some or all of the water.
3. Check the food to make sure it smells all right.

Protrusions of the anal port
The forceful and improper stripping of the eggs from the goldfish can result in the oviduct and/or the lower part of the colon is protruding thru the anal port. This condition is fatal.

50F and below Stop feeding
50-60F Feed every 1-2 days low protein
60-85F Feed 2-4 times per day high protein
85F and above Stop Feeding

Eyes
Fish eyes are similar to human eyes but adapted to work underwater.

Nose
Fish do not have a true nose but they do have bilateral nares, there is no connection to the mouth. They can sense chemical changes in the water like medications and stress response from other fish.

Taste
Most taste receptors are not on the tongue, they are on barbels, or in catfish all over their body. Fish respond to different stimuli than mammals but do have a strong response to bitter/sour.

Hearing
No ears but there is a pinhole mark on the side of the head and they can hear beyond the capacity of their lateral line. Some species can utilize swim bladder to amplify sounds, in carp it is called the weberian apparatus and it transm its sound from the swim bladder to the cranium.

Lateral line
Used to detect movement, vibration, and pressure Made up of modified epithelial cells (neuromasts) - hair cells Holes are an opening/entrance to the lateral line In some species it can wrap around their head/fins

Electrical
Eels/rays/sharks pick up electrical signals in water

Gills
Primary and secondary filaments connect blood supply at bony gill arch

Osmotic homeostasis
Organs that regulate electrolyte balance.

• Gills
• Kidneys
• Urinary bladder
• Gut

Kidneys
Perform osmoregulatory function. Waste excretion is primarily at the gills. In freshwater they remove water and produce urine. In Saltwater they are less significant and remove minor waste.

Urinary bladder
Absent in some species, minimal in others, enlarged portion of distal ureter

Gas Exchange
Root effect - increase in partial pressure of co2 in the blood decreases hemoglobin oxygen capacity.
Bohr effect - decrease in PH causes decreased oxygen affinity
These shifts work to get oxygen into tissue faster. For example in muscles that have been working hard. This is also how the swim bladder works in some fish, by creating low ph.

Buoyancy
Physostomous
Pressure increased by root/bohr effect
Aerobic/anerobic metabolism of gas gland
Dumping of o2 into swim bladder
Increased hydrostatic pressure with depth.
Must maintain neutral buoyancy by pressure within swim bladder
Increase pressure = inflate swim bladder
Decrease in pressure = deflate swim bladder

Immune function
Phagocytosis
Granulocytic and mononuclear phagocytic cells (common in invertebrates) engulf and digest or secrete away. Major sites of phagocytosis are in the kidney and spleen.
Humoral and cell mediated immunity, usually in mammals and some in fish B and T lymphocytes Antibody production Vaccines
T cells go kill
B cells hold antibodies

Stress Response
Causes of stress
Water quality
Environmental: lack of hiding places, vibrations, overcrowding
Social: predator prey, fighting, breeding
Handling/transport: fish are meant to be in water
Nutritional
Therapeutics: chemical treatments
Pathogens: viruses, bacteria, fungi, parasites
Loss of equilibrium: over/under inflated swim bladder
Acute stress is beneficial: fight or flight
Chronic stress is detrimental: decreased immune function, reproductive capability